By Monica Sabella
Originally Published for teleSUR English
The Festival of Mama Negra is one of the oldest in the city of Latacunga and traces of the city’s vibrant past and varied cultural influences from its Spanish, Aymaran, Incan, Mayan, and African ancestors can be seen throughout the festival.
A tradition which is repeated twice a year, once in September and again in November, hits its apex in the week of November 11, when the city fills the streets to watch a parade of legendary characters pass by, bestowing blessings candy, and homemade brew to the crowd.
Dancers and local bands make way for their regal guests who’s origins are a blended mixture of indigenous mythology and Catholicism, remnants of the Spanish influence from their first arrival in Ecuador.
The city’s traditional festival dates back to 1742 when the nearby volcano Cotopaxi erupted and threatened to destroy the village of Latacunga. The town turned to the Virgin of Mercy, patron of Cotopaxi, and when the city was spared, the tribute became an annual tradition.
Through time, its religious beginnings took a mythical turn, adopting cultural aspects from the African community of slaves brought by Spaniards to work in the mines hence transforming what was a procession for a virgin to a parade for “La Mama Negra”, the “Black Mother.”
Arguably one of the most difficult roles is that of the Ashanga bearers who carry a cumbersome collection of traditional food, liqueurs and fruit which will be presented as an offering to the Mama Negra.
The wives or ‘Camisonas’ of the soldiers, the most flamboyant characters, are played by the men and boys of the town. Wrapped in necklaces, a mop of curls and any assortment of ridiculous accessories, the camisonas pass candy to children in the crowd.
Among the myriad of characters, one of the first to appear is the Angel of the Stars who rides on horseback and bestows blessings on the festive crowd.
The ‘peace keepers’ of the parade are the Champuseros and the Negros Loero who keep the festivities going while distributing liquor or juice to the crowds.
The Huacos are one of the most important characters to appear in the parade. With their skeletal white and bestriped faces, huacos act as the medicine men, purifying the crowds with palms and bones, and preparing them for the Black Mama.
Dressed in blue, the honor to dance with Mama Negra at the close of the parade is reserved for the Captain and his guard. With their curved swords, they represent freedom, courage, and strength.
The Moorish King is a symbol of respect, a subtle nod to the Moors who represented an enemy of the Spaniards and, consequently, a symbol of strength to the indigenous communities of the past.
Latacungan residents of all ages celebrate 300 years of tradition, dancing, singing and filling the air with a feeling of festivity that will travel late into the night.
The grand finale comes as Mama Negra appears on horseback, exquisitely dressed in the traditional clothing and carrying two black dolls- her children of Latacunga- and sprinkling the crowd with water and milk.